Map to Saraswathi's Shala

Just in case you're studying with Saraswathi during the Shala "high" season, here's the map to her Shala below. If it's your first time getting to Saraswathi's Shala, I would take 8th Cross (past KPJAYI) to 4th Main and walk straight down to her Shala which will be on your right hand side. I went to her Shala a few times (one of her assistants is a former pastry chef and has bake sales every Saturday). I kept missing the unmarked left turn.

Last Thoughts

Safety

I've had a few private emails concerning the decision to travel alone to India. I was a little nervous, but I also had experience traveling to the Middle East and living overseas for a few years. I met another single female traveler who had never been to a foreign country before and she found her way to and from Mysore just fine. I felt very safe living in Gokalum, Mysore, but I was always aware of my surroundings when walking alone. So, I guess traveling to India solo depends on your personal comfort level. I met Shala students who came with friends or their significant others and ended up leaving early because they were uncomfortable with the area. I guess you won't know until you get here.
In my checked baggage, I packed a pepper spray/alarm device, but I take that even when traveling to Europe alone.

What I Learned

I highly recommend traveling to Mysore to study yoga. If you teach yoga, it will give you a different perspective on how you teach. Do you tend to dress up your yoga classes to fulfill the student's constant craving for entertainment or are you teaching in an authentic way that aligns your values with your actions? There was something so authentic about experiencing, listening, and watching how the Ashtanga Yoga system is taught. It even forced me to question how the West addresses discomfort, pain and injury in yoga classes. While Saraswathi was very understanding about the injuries of various students, she was also very stern about discomfort and pain being a part of the learning experience, and if you're listening to your body, you won't injure yourself. There were some moments in the practice where it was painful...not in a way that would injure myself, but in a "I have to work really hard at this and I would rather be in bed" kind of way. The yoga is not the incredibly hard pose that I'm experiencing, but the decision I made to get out of bed and practice when I new it was going to be hard...

Hopefully this blog is helpful and will encourage you to make the trip to Mysore.

Namaste,
Rachael

The Post Office

An acquaintance of mine recently went to the post office to send some gifts he bought while in India. He spent well over what I payed for a month of rent, but figured he had a lot of heavy things to send. I, on the other hand, had a few books and a Shala rug. I probably could have fit it in my carry-on, but I didn't feel like carrying it through three different airports.

There's a post office on 10th Main (just after Anu's on the left hand side, house #325). Like most shops in Gokalum, it opens around 10:00 am. This office only sends letters, so if you need to send a box you'll have to go to the Main Post Office in Mysore. Any rickshaw driver will be able to get you there and back.

There's no need to pre-package or go around looking for boxes. Once you arrive at the Main Post Office, go to the main entrance and there will be a desk and someone who will package all of your items on the spot. Make sure you bring (or have memorized) your "from" address, which will be the hotel/apartment you're staying at in Mysore. The cost of packaging will be added on to your final bill inside the actual post office (60 Rps).

You'll be directed to one of the stations where you'll fill out 3 custom forms and the package will be weighed. I had a small box under 10 pounds, so I wasn't too worried about the cost. I read some old blogs online that said shipping a box to the United States from India was relatively cheap. I was expecting to pay no more than 1000 Rps for ground post and delivery in 2-3 months. This is where I was wrong and luckily had brought my stash of rupees I saved for my car ride back to Bangalore airport. I paid over 3,000 Rps...and they had already packaged and taken the box back to the mail room before I even paid. These are prices you can expect to pay in the United States for international shipping. My advice, try to stuff it in your suitcase. Or, if you bought a lot of items, it may be more fiscally savvy to purchase an extra duffel bag in Mysore and just check it in at the airport.

Last time I checked, Lufthansa economy flights from the United Stated to India are allowed 2 checked bags weighing up to 23 Kg each. If you exceed the number of free baggage allowed, you'll end up spending about the same for extra baggage fees, but will have your items with you.

Here's a good website to check the rate of shipping at the post office:
http://www.indiapost.gov.in/SP_Rate_Calculator.aspx

Here's another good website for Lufthansa and baggage restrictions:
http://www.lufthansa.com/online/portal/lh/hu/info_and_services/baggage?nodeid=3331125&l=en&cid=1000263

Mysore Palace Lights

This is definitely worth the trip while you're in Mysore. The Mysore Palace lights are lit on Sundays after 6:00 pm or 7:00 pm. If you want to see the lights turn-on, it's best to get their early and double check the turn-on times with the locals. Otherwise, an evening drive after dinner is perfect. Entrance is free and you'll see many families enjoying the evening.

Gandhi Square - RRR Hotel Restaurant

The Indian version of "all you can eat" in Gandhi Square. Once in the Gandhi Square round-a-bout, look for the sign that says RRR Hotel. Right underneath the sign you'll see the entrance to the restaurant and seating is first come first serve. They serve chicken, mutton as well as vegetarian dishes. Servers come around dishing out portions of unlimited rice and whatever you ordered off the menu. Really good food...and you'll be dining off of banana leaves!

Anu's Cooking Class

If you want to learn about Indian cooking...Anu's has a great cooking class which can be scheduled on Saturdays. They will need a minimum of 5 people in attendance, but if you cannot get that many people, Anu and Ganesh can help with that
as well. We had 9 people total and learned how to make paneer, palak paneer, channa masala as well as a special request for parathas. We also learned about the traditional Indian spices. After we learned how the dishes were made, we got to eat them...as well as a rice pudding dessert!

Cost: 450 Rps per person

Address: #367 2nd Main Road, Gokulam, Mysore
ganeshmysore@gmail.com, anugan@gmail.com

Last Led Practice

At the end of practice, Saraswathi spoke to us about the importance of breathing, drishti and taking our time in the postures:

She said a student can be in a posture and appear to be very flexible and strong, but if they're not breathing or focusing their gaze, they're not in the correct posture. Saraswathi was also adamant about waiting for a pose to be given to you and not asking for more poses. She said that when she see's you breathing and gazing correctly in a posture, then she will give you a new pose.  

Food and Diet Concerns

In India, you'll adopt a more vegetarian diet if you're not one already. This diet is high in starch (rice/roti/nan almost every meal) and stewed vegetables in sauce. This diet is also the most common, so it's easy to dine where the locals eat and try traditional Indian dishes (veg restaurants). With the language barrier and the general pasty consistency of sauces, it may be difficult to determine what's in the dishes at the local restaurants. Many dishes use a yogurt or cream for thickening which may pose a problem for some. Little cafes such as Santosha's, Anokhi's and Anu's offer dishes/smoothies that meet special dietary requirements (allergies, vegans, etc.). Many people with special diets end up buying local produce and cooking for themselves. I have spoken to many Shala students who do this and they haven't had a problem. It's recommended that you wash your fruit and vegetables with drinking water. Loyal World (see previous blog for directions) also has a full stock of granola, cereals, packaged dried fruits and juices.

If you're a meat eater you'll have to visit specific restaurants to find meat-based dishes (non-veg restaurants). Some restaurants serve meat dishes (chicken, mutton) after a certain hour (like 7:30 pm). And if you're a beef eater, forget about it. I think the bigger cities such as Bangalore serve beef, but I'm not totally sure. Don't expect McDonald's to serve you a cheeseburger. I heard it's all chicken sandwiches. I saw a kabob restaurant in Ooty called the Kabob Corner. Apparently it comes highly recommended on Lonely Planet if you want to let your "inner carnivore scream"...or something like that.

If you've adopted the more veg-diet in India, I would use caution when dining out on foods normally not found in these dishes (i.e. fried foods, meat, etc.). These foods are more than likely prepared just fine, but if you have a sensitive stomach, this can shock your body. Probably smaller portions or samples will be easier to digest. The odds will not be in your favor if you decide to down a whole plate of fried mo-mo's or tandoori chicken after 2 to 3 weeks on a primarily vegetarian diet. 

Silver Nest

A great low-key, reasonably-priced, well-crafted jewelry store just one street away from the Shala. Her shop is word of mouth and she doesn’t advertise much so she can keep the prices of her jewelry down. She has an array of pendants, mala beads, necklaces, earrings, rings and such. During Shala high season you can buy an assortment of well-crafted jewelry. During the Shala low season, you can purchase what she has in her shop or design your own jewelry with a large array of stones and pendants on hand to choose from.

Address: 279 7^th Cross, 3^rd Stage, Gokalum, Mysore. Her street is parallel to the Shala street. When you walk up the road toward Doctor’s Corner Road (up the hill), her house will be on the right. You’ll see a small placard that says “Silver Nest.” She’s open from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm and closed on Sundays. It’s a residential house, so just ring the door-bell. 

A Note to Beginners

Like I said in a previous blog, there are many beginners who come to the Shala to learn the practice.  It can be an intimidating and humbling experience. I've seen a handful of friends (Westerners and Indians) pay for one or two months at the Shala and end up staying for a week. I've heard one say that the practice is too hard while another feels intimidated by the seriousness of the Shala environment. Another woman left because she felt the instruction methods were "unsupportive."

If you come to the Shala as a beginner, you'll learn the practice in the traditional method. Postures will be given to you by Saraswathi or Sharath. You are to practice these postures over and over until they give you another one. It's not uncommon for Saraswathi to assist one student in the Intermediate Series while calling out Surya Namaskar to a beginner across the room. The teaching methods are not meant to embarrass anyone. It's meant to get your attention in a room full of people. Internally, it will be a testament to whether you're a serious student who is willing to learn. 

If you're coming to the Shala as a brand new student, here are some tips that may make the learning experience a little more comfortable:

Don'ts:

1. Don't come into the Shala and do a random vinyasa practice. If you don't know the series at all, stand at the front of your mat until Saraswathi comes to you. She will ask if you're a beginner and then guide you through Surya Namaskar A. If you know some of the postures, do what you know and then wait. She will come to you in time, I promise.

2. Don't bring notes or those Ashtanga series cheat sheets into the Shala...Just don't do it. In fact, leave them at home.

3. Don't wander over to one of the posters on the Shala walls and try to see what pose comes next...Saraswathi will give you the next pose when she determines you are ready.

4. Don't request another pose, even if you know how to do the pose...Saraswathi will give you the next pose (or beginning of the next series) when she determines you are ready. 

Do's:

1. Keep count of how many times you've practiced a posture or gone through a Surya Namaskar. Saraswathi may ask you how many you did a pose and if you don't remember, she'll assume you're not a serious student.  

2. Take your time and have some faith. Some of these poses seem impossible, but over time your body will be able to do them. 

3. Adjustments. When you're receiving adjustments, go with the flow. When you resist and become rigid you risk injury.

4. Laugh at yourself when you fall out of a pose. Better yet, laugh at your friend who passes gas in Mari D. 

5. Practicing on the stage. I've seen another blog saying that you shouldn't practice on the stage. There were few days that were really crowded and a few of us were on the stage. Everyone was so immersed in there own practice they didn't even notice. It wasn't a big deal (at least in Saraswathi's class).

Talakadu, the Buses and Rickshaws

If you plan on seeing a few temples, to include the Somnathpur Temple, I would travel to Talakadu (pronounced Talakad) on the same trip since it's only a few kilometers south of Somnathpur. It's one of the only historic sites I've seen being actively excavated and preserved. There's a myth behind the Talakadu temples and most of them are buried under beach-like sand.

Travel: From the Mysore bus station, take the bus to Narasipur and then another bus to Talakadu. Once in Talakadu, just follow the signs to the temples. It's about an 1800 meter walker, but totally worth it. You'll go through old Talakadu. If you want to see the Kaveri River/Talakadu picnic area, just follow the signs toward the river. If traveling from Somnathpur (previous blog: Somnathpur), you can just hop on a bus/rickshaw/taxi back to Narasipur and take another bus to Talakadu from there. I imagine there's a bus traveling from Somnathpur to Talakadu, but you'll have to ask.

The Buses

So, we've been on quite a few by now and there's definitely a difference in "time" spent on the bus. The red or green buses are pretty fast. They stop at a few pick-up stations along their route, but they'll get you to your destination fairly quickly. There are also white buses. These buses look more expensive because they have nicer seats, curtains, loud Indian music (which made me feel like I was in the Rocky Horror Picture Show) and videos of Bollywood playing for entertainment. There will be a placard at the front of some of these white buses that say "non-stop." You'll want to get on those buses. You will want to avoid getting on the white buses without the non-stop placards unless you want to turn a 15 minute journey into a 45 minute journey where you stop every three blocks. Some of our Shala counterparts have taken the A/C buses, but they reserve those seats for about 300 Rps (to Bangalore) at the bus station or the Xerox shop in Gokalum.

Rickshaws

We've taken a number of these guys too. We've bargained, asked for meters, etc. We've found a few drivers that are trustworthy and tend to call them rather than finding a random driver on the street. We learned something a little new today. I guess a few hotels/restaurants pay commission to these rickshaw drivers to bring tourists to their destinations. The drivers will pretend to be lost, especially if you requested the meter. My suggestion - if a rickshaw driver pulls over to another and asks for directions or takes you to the completely wrong place, get out and find another driver. Perhaps bargaining for a flat price is a better way to go in this case. 

New Businesses Near Shala

Below are two new businesses/services that will be offered around the Shala provided by students of the Shala:

The Green House
Pavithra, M.Sc., Ph.D.
#226, Shala Road, 2nd Main, 8th Cross, 3rd Stage, Gokulam, Mysore
It's right up the street from the main Shala. If you get lost or are unsure, he's the guy in the white shorts with an amazing 2nd/3rd series practice...sort or hard to miss. He sells natural incense sticks, herbal perfume oils, mantra chanting beads, meditation mats, organic products, herbal coffee, tea, etc.

Lilly Lauterbach's Massage
Specializes in deep tissue, therapeutic and Thai massage. She has 13 years of professional experience as a licensed massage therapist in the United States. Her number is 9008947166 and her apartment is near the Shala.

Bandipur National Park

After led practice on Saturday, we took a bus trip from the Mysore bus station to the Bandipur National Park. We took the red Ooty bus for 70 Rps per person, one way. Total time took about 2 1/2 hours.  If you plan to visit the park, it's important to get off at the stop within the actual park at the ranger station (reception office and ticket office are visible from the road) where a bunch of monkeys will greet you and wonder if you have food.

The park is a tiger reserve and is open for safari's from 6:30 am to 8:30 am and 4:00 pm to 6:00 pm. If you plan on taking a safari, which is the only authorized way to actually visit the park, you have to do so by the public safari bus (1100 Rps for foreigners) or stay at one of the resorts in the park and they'll have private buses. My friend and I pooled our money together and shared a room at one of the resorts since we had Sunday off. Expect to pay American prices, but the price included all of our meals, coffee, tea, bottled water and a beautiful room and bathroom with 24/7 hot water...It was worth it for the shower alone! We arrived at 2:00 pm at the ranger station and were bused to the hotel where they fed us lunch, coffee, tea and then sent us straight back to the ranger station to get on a private safari bus.

You can expect to see wild boars, elephants, peacocks, spotted deer, etc. If you're lucky (and everyone wishes you luck), you may see a tiger. A cool trip if you want to get out of the city.

Gokalum Map (Updated)

West of Gokalum Road

East of Gokalum Road

If I haven't highlighted a shop or restaurant, it's either because I haven't been there yet or it's seasonal.

More Restaurants, Cafes, Services and Such

Restaurants:

Anokhi's Garden: Great menu if you need a break from Indian food. Open Thursday-Sunday from 08:30 am to 12:30 pm for breakfast and lunch. They also have rooms to rent. #408 Contour Road, Gokulam - near the Piles and Proctology Hospital.
www.anokhigarden.com

Anu's Bamboo Hut: They have great food, smoothies, juices, teas and desserts. During Shala low season, you can pre-order lunches to-go. Make sure you order either the day before or before 0900 the same day. The also have smoothies, juices, desserts and tea starting at 5:00 pm during Shala low season. If you come during high season they are open throughout the day. They also have rooms for rent.
#367 2nd Main Road, Gokulam.
http://www.ashtangayogini.com/AshtangaYoga/Mysore/Gokulam/AnusBambooHut.html

Santosha: Great menu if you need a break from Indian food. Open Sunday-Friday from 8:00 am to 12:00 pm. On 2nd Main, 3 blocks down the hill from KPJAYI. They also have free wifi available.

6th Main: A wide variety of both South and North Indian lunches and dinners, smoothies, milkshakes and desserts. On 6th Main between Temple and Gokalum Road.

Tina's Cafe: Lunch and dinner cafe if you're looking for a lighter meal. Very cheap, quick and cozy...closed Sundays. Menu changes everyday - Gokalum Road.

Cafes:

Barista: Bright orange and down the road from Tina's Cafe on Temple Road. Excellent coffee. No wi-fi, but nice atmosphere.

Ayurvedic Massage:

Madhu: Originating from Kerala, 16th generation of his family. He'll pick you up at your location and he's very professional. Ask him to show you his Ayurvedic scrolls. Phone Number: 9342183792

Spa:

Kumuda Spa: If you're looking for the spa ambience and soft lighting, this is where you need to go. Facials, manicures, pedicures, body wraps, waxing, threading and massages. Very clean and professional. 5th Main between Tina's Cafe and 6th Main restaurant.

*Please note that the restaurant open/close times may vary during high to low tourist seasons.

What is Shala Time?

The Shala clock is always 15 minutes fast. So if chanting starts at 10:30 am, you'll need to be there at 10:15 am. The chanting teacher says that Indians are always late, so the clock is fast to make everyone on time. Just an FYI. 

Loyal World

I went to a local supermarket today to buy some detergent for the washer. I was pleased to find many American items such as toothpaste, shampoo, conditioner, body wash, etc. There's even American food products such as Special K, granola bars and snacks. You don't have to waste the space in your luggage by bringing a lot of products with you. I would suggest bringing some small carry-on toiletries just to get you by for a day or two and then head to Loyal World which is located on Temple Road.

Ooty & Coonoor

Moon day came right after our day of rest (which is Sunday for Saraswathi, so we had Sunday and Monday off). I was lucky enough to plan an excursion without missing practice. I decided to go to Coonoor, which is right outside of Ooty to see the tea plantations. The 5 hour bus ride to Ooty was worth the trip alone. The bus took us through the Bhanipur National Park and a few mountain villages where the scenery was absolutely beautiful.  Once in Ooty, we took a 30 minute bus ride up the tea plantation hills of Ooty all the way to Coonoor. I ended up staying at the Acres Wild Farm home-stay where they made there own cheeses and the home-cooked Indian meals. The rooms were spacious and rustic. Evenings included large bison sleeping near the house and my new friend Spencer, an incredibly large arachnid who lived in the bathroom. Room came equipped with stories from the owner about tea workers being chased by wild elephants and boars. 

I was able to go to a tea factory and spent some time learning how tea is made. I was also delighted to take part in the tea and organic chocolate tasting. 

You’re higher up in elevation, so bring a rain jacket, sweater and some closed-toe shoes or hiking shoes. An umbrella isn't a bad idea either. The temperature is a little cooler than Mysore. I left after the guided primary series on Saturday and returned on Monday. Total trip time one way was about 6 hours...if you take one of those more expensive private buses it will probably be shorter with fewer stops. There aren't any bathrooms on the public bus, but they generally make at least one stop. Sometimes the stop will include a ladies bathroom, sometimes it won't...so be prepared for that.  

            

Week 2 Led Practice

This week's led practice was certainly more enjoyable than my first one...I knew what to expect from Saraswathi and her overall rhythm of the class. I was also able to remember details about the closing practice, which seem to vary from teacher to teacher:

Urdhva dhanurasana: 5 counts for each repetition
Pascimattanasana: 10 counts
Sarvangasana: 10 counts
Halasana: 8 counts
Karna pidasana: 8 counts
Urdhva padmasana: 8 counts
Pindasana: 8 counts
Matsyasana: 8 counts
Uttana padasana: 8 counts
Sirsasana: 15 counts/half bend: 10 counts
Baddha padmasana: 10 counts
Yoga mudra: 10 counts
Utpluthih: 10 counts

Girl Talk at the Shala

If you happen to be a member of the male gender, you may want to close this particular blog...I'll be discussing the "Lady's Holiday" and pregnancy customs at the Shala. If this doesn't weird you out, then be my guest and continue reading.

Lady's Holiday

If you're not aware of a "Lady's Holiday", it's in reference to the time of the month when women menstruate. It's expected that women do not practice at the Shala during this particular time. It's considered "unclean" and there are other health concerns with inversions, etc. Here's the deal...no one at the Shala is going to check or ask. Some women feel that they've paid a lot of money to practice at the Shala and do not wish to follow this custom. Others may take one or two days off depending on how they feel. Some follow the custom. Whatever your belief or reasoning, my best suggestion is to do what feels right to you.

Pregnancy

You can practice while you're pregnant at the Shala. The only pre-requisite is that you're beyond your first trimester. After that, you can practice the primary series with the appropriate modifications for pregnancy. I met a woman today who practiced at the Shala until she was 6 months pregnant. I was surprised.

Need Clothes? (Updated)

FabIndia

Many of the clothes in India are made according to your specifications by a tailor. There are a few shops that sell pre-made clothes, but mostly you'll find an array of fabrics to choose from. You can definitely go this route...it may take a little time with the tailor, but the fabrics are beautiful. A friend of mine used Krishna Tailor in Gokalum, next to the main temple and his pants turned out great. I recently found a somewhat "high-end" shop called FabIndia. 

Most rickshaw drivers know where it is and it cost around 50 Rps to get there from Gokalum. They have beautiful, pre-made clothing made in India and decent quality. For $50.00 US Dollars, you can purchase quite a bit. 

Address: 
Jayalakshmi Vilas Road, Next to Hotel Airline, Chamarajapuram, Mysore, Karnataka 570005

Desi Shop

A little far from Gokalum (on Panchamantra Road in Kuvempunagar), but a whole lot cheaper than Fab India. It's an organic shop selling shirts, pajamas, kurthas, waist coats, sarees, bags, purses, etc. 

Yoga Mat and Tattoo Etiquette in India

The Yoga Mat:

A fellow yogi shared a story with me while we were walking around Gokalum:

A Western girl brought a colorful mat into one of the yoga centers in Mysore, India. When she unrolled her mat, there was a printed picture of Ganesh from top to bottom...she came to Tadasana to begin her practice. The teacher in the Shala told her to stop and said she could not practice on that mat because she was stepping on his God. After much deliberation, my friend finally told her to use another mat so they could continue with the class. Apparently, the girl didn't understand what was wrong with her mat.

It seems like common sense, but for most Westerners there's been a wide divide between Yoga and the rich influence of Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Tantra traditions that have all played a role to bring us these poses that we're practicing. Perhaps you have yogi toes with a small Buddha at the top. Maybe Sanskrit or the Chakras down the middle of your mat. I've seen elegantly painted pictures of Hindu Gods and Goddesses...even the Dalai Lama. While these decorations are beautiful, they're not appropriate, especially while practicing in India.

Suggestion: Don't bring these mats or yogi toes to India. You'll end up offending someone. If you must keep your mat, perhaps hang it in your practice space for adoration, not something to step on.

Tattoos:

I have an Om tattoo...but luckily I had certain friends that were very persistent on the appropriate placement of such a tattoo. They told me that anywhere above the waist is okay if I must get one. You can't see mine unless I take off my shirt, and I won't be doing that in India any time soon. I even practice with a full length top. However, if you have an Om symbol or any religious tattoo below the waist or on the foot, I would try to cover it up. There's one female who wears what looks like an ankle brace when she practices and walks around town. One day I asked her in the dressing room if she had an injury and she showed me her Om symbol right above her ankle...that's why she wears it. She also told me that she doesn't regret getting the tattoo there, but out of respect for the majority of the population here in Mysore, she covers it up. And I think that's fair.
   

Somanathapura - Chennakesava Temple (updated)

Somanathapura is famous for the Chennakesava Temple (also called Kesava or Keshava temple) which was built in 1268 CE (35 km away from Mysore). The Keshava temple is one of the most complete examples of Hoysala architecture and is in a very well preserved condition. 


You can always rent a car, but what's the fun in that? We got there by two buses. The first bus took us from the Mysore city center to Narsipura. We then hopped on a smaller local bus from Narsipura to Somanathapura (6 km). As long as you can stomach the children following you on the bus and asking for money, then you'll be fine. 


The fee to get into the temple (for non-Indian folk) is 100 Rps. There's a shop with brass buddhas and statues right before the entrance. His prices are too high for what they're worth and he doesn't come down on price very much (until you leave the shop and are waiting for the bus). I highly question the quality of the statues since I saw some white powder coming out of them.


This is a tourist attraction and education attraction for local Indians, so be prepared. Indians will try to take photographs of you or with you as much as the temple itself. I would highly suggest not taking any pictures with anyone. I even saw a few trying to sneak photographs of us.   


Getting back from Somanathapura was a bit challenging. The bus wasn't exactly at "30 minute" intervals. We were only 35 km outside of Mysore, but it felt like the middle of nowhere. We hitched a ride on a white truck. It's bigger than a rickshaw and can hold quite a few people (10 Rps per person). It took us all the way back to Narsipura where we were able to find the bus back to Mysore.

There's really no place to eat until you get back to Mysore. I would suggest taking a light snack and water with you just in case. Luckily, I didn't have to use the bathroom nor did I see a ladies toilet, so good luck finding one (or a bush)! We bought some crackers from a boy selling them on the bus back to Mysore. They tasted like animal crackers and did the job.

Bylakuppe - Tibetan Refugee Camp

Bylakuppe is something to see while you're here in Mysore. There was some sort of rumor about needing a special visa to get inside, but this is only if the Dalai Lama is visiting (I believe). The temples are extraordinary and there are monks and nuns everywhere doing their daily prayers and chores. It's really nice to take some time and sit outside one of the temples and listen to the chanting. The monks didn't want to speak to us, perhaps it was because of our gender? We're not sure, but the nuns were more than happy to give us words of wisdom:

"If you ignore God, God will ignore you"
or
"Make sure you pray every day in this life so your next life will be better"

We took an Indian bus from the Mysore Bus Station (a 62 Rps ride to the Mysore Bus Station from Gokulam via rickshaw, 74 Rps one-way for the bus ride to Bylakuppe, and another 80 Rps for the rickshaw to the Golden Temple). The bus ride is approximately 2 1/2 hours, but well worth it! I'll probably go again with some other people who haven't gone. 

Particular Poses

I believe that many of you who are thinking about going to Mysore or have been practicing Ashtanga yoga know about the stickler poses...you know, the ones that allow you to continue through the primary series or receive a pose from the intermediate series. I found that Saraswathi is a stickler about the following poses below. It's highly recommended to work on them a few times in a row and/or wait for her assistance before moving on. It's not perfection she's looking for, she just wants you to work on them with her assistance. There are many people here who cannot bind in Marichasana D and are allowed to progress through the primary series. So no worries if you're at that stage.

Marichasana B
Marichasana D
Supta Kurmasana
Urdhva Danurasana dropbacks

Saraswathi will always assist you in Utthita Hasta Padangusthasana whether you want it or not...it's just her thing!

Week 1 Led Practice

I had my led practice today. Saraswathi has her led practices on Saturday and takes Sunday off. Sharath was walking around helping as well. There's about 50 students total, so between Saraswathi, Sharath and her two assistants we definitely get plenty of help. I also have to say that the weather has been spectacular...not too hot or too cold and a nice breeze. It may shower during the night, but the sun shines during the day. With the Shala being in "low season" since Sharath isn't teaching, this is an awesome time to come...and you get assists from him anyways. Below are a few differences I've noticed:

-Saraswathi calls Dandasana "Paschimottanasana A"
-Urdhva Danurasana was only held for 5 breaths per repitition instead of 10.
-Of course, we got the playful 6 or 7 Navasanas and a seriously long Sirsasana and Uplitihi...just for fun.

Personally, I find the led practices a little less challenging. When I'm in Mysore, I'm able to take the time to work my body into the poses, where in a led practice I really don't have the time. But, practice and all is coming.

The Devaraja Market, Cauvery Emporium and Anokhi's Garden

The Market

The Devaraja Market is beautiful...flowers, coconuts, spices, fruits and vegetables line the streets. I've been twice now and find that the afternoons are really busy. It's best to go mid-morning. Of course there will be venders yelling at you to get your attention and spend money. Unless you really want to buy something, I would avoid eye contact and keep walking. Being the polite, smiling, waving American doesn't really work in these places. The word "no" or "no, thank you" doesn't hold much value, but ignoring them does.

If you're going to bring a bag or purse with you, buy one of those bags that you can drape over your shoulder and can hold it in front of you. Backpacks do not work. Before I left, I bought a $50.00 bag from REI. It's a black, over the shoulder, anti-theft bag that had secure zipper locks and mesh wiring inside in case someone tries to cut your bag open from the bottom. It's been a good investment thus far. It also has some sort of layer that prevents stolen information from iPhones and credit cards.

I had a friend of mine wearing a backpack and kneeling down to buy some old coins from a street vendor. I went inside the shop next door. When I came out of the shop two minutes later, two men were hovering over my friend, who was still bargaining with the street vendor. I walked over to her and re-zipped up the back of her bag where her wallet was exposed. I then yelled at the men and they walked off. It can happen that fast. If you need to take a backpack with you, carry it in front.

Also, if you're a female, don't be surprised if someone tries to touch you inappropriately, especially if the market is busy. You don't want it to happen, but don't have a nervous breakdown if it does.

The Cauvery Emporium (please note, this is Cauvery spelled with a "C" not a "K". There's another store that sells cheaper products and it's spelled with a "K".You do not want to go to this store).

A few blocks down the street from the market is the Cauvery Emporium. It's a government owned store with jewelry, sandalwood, beautiful fabrics, sari's, etc...We went shopping there with a friend who has an Indian wife. He bought her a few Sari's and the colors are extraordinary. You cannot bargain here and the prices are a little higher, but they have quality items! Tell your rickshaw driver it's on Sayyaji Road.

Anokhi's Garden

Tired of Indian food? Anokhi's Garden is owned by a French couple on Contour Road (just before the Piles and Proctology Hospital). Fantastic food to include eggs, toast, pancakes, pressed coffee, etc...I had chai, chocolate crepes with bananas and cinnamon! They're open Thursday to Sunday from 0800-12:30 for breakfast and lunch. The owner Marie has some great recommendations and business cards for just about anything you're looking for!

A quick note about the practice:

I'm still trying to get down the rhythm of things in the Shala. I know Saraswathi wants to adjust me in Mari D and Kurmasana, but the question is how long do I wait? Sometimes you wait considerable amounts of time before she can get to you, which is understandable. I did Mari D three times today before she waved me on because she was so busy. I held Kurmasana for a while too, but since I cannot make eye contact, I continued with the rest of the series after about 20 breaths. By the time I got to backbends, I waited for her to assist with drop-backs. All the way from accross the room she yells,

"What you did? You did Kurmasana?"

Me: "Yes"

"You catch?"

Me: I shake my head no.

She points her finger at me and says, "You wait next time!"

Of course, there's a little chuckle from my friends in the Shala. It's actually not demeaning like it probably sounds, she does it like a mother would. After only a few days of practice with her she knows what you need. So...I will wait!

Practice Notes and Marichyasana D

Just a few differences/notes I've picked up here in Mysore regarding the Ashtanga practice:

-Sharath said you use natural, even breathing while practicing asana.
-Set Bandhasana (crown of the head and arms crossed version) is practiced.
-Head is down during paschimottanasana, ardha baddha padmottanasana, triang mukha eka pada paschimottanasana and janusirsasana.
-I'm very impressed with the number of beginners that have chosen to study at the Shala. Some have no experience at all and I think it's wonderful. If you're intimidated to come because of a particular pose, don't be. You're here to learn, no one expects perfection. Saraswathi is a stickler about Marichyasana D, but if she sees that you're close she'll still progress you into the practice without a full bind.

...Led class is on Saturday, so I'm sure I'll pick up more. The Sanskrit teacher also wants to add a Yoga Sutras class after chanting, so we'll see if we can get enough people (need a minimum of 5 students interested). Out of 50 or so students attending the Shala, only 7-8 people attend the additional classes on Sanskrit and Yoga philosophy. Even though it costs extra, it's less than $25.00...you probably spend more at Starbucks. The one Sanskrit workshop I attended in Washington D.C. cost over $100.00 for one day...so it's well worth it if you come over here.

Day 4 - First Practice

First day of practice was great! Intense energy in the Shala. Saraswathi has a watchful eye, especially when you're the new person.

I waited for her to help me bind in mari D since I'm unable to do it on my own and I wanted to continue with the rest of the primary series. At the beginning of the closing series, I did my three backbends and then stood up at the front of my mat and patiently waited for drop back assists. With the drop-backs, she'll have you do three half backbends and then assist you all the way down on the fourth. On the last drop-back she'll have you hold urdhva dhanurasana for 5 breaths before coming back up. The key is to wait if you need help. There are so many students, but she does a fantastic job of getting around to everyone.  Sharath is around...I guess he pops in from time to time to help assist.

After practice the coconut stand is right outside the Shala...15 Rps buys you the best tasting coconut water.

Day 3

With a little morning reconnaissance to the Shala and absolute assurance of an afternoon appointment with the KPJAYI secretary (even though today is a moon day), I was able to register! The gate guard was sleeping, so I slipped right up the steps and into the office. The Shala is beautiful. There was a big desire to take a picture, but the big blue sign hanging next to the door forbids it. 

To practice with Saraswathi for a month it cost 28,600 Rps, which includes compulsory chanting Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 10:30 am. Sanskrit and Hatha Pradipika classes are Monday, Wednesday and Friday afternoons at 3:45 pm and cost an additional 1,400 Rps. 

There has been an issue with appropriate female attire outside of the Shala and plenty of lectures from Saraswathi during class. So here's the deal:

While practicing inside the Shala you can wear your typical yoga attire. Outside of the Shala is a different story. The exposure of female shoulders, chest and anything above mid calf is considered inappropriate. If you plan to travel outside of Mysore to smaller villages, I would plan to cover the ankles too. You'll see some of the younger girls wearing jeans with a long shirt that covers both shoulders and chest area, which is fine. 

Men...I've seen the general pants and shirt as well as shorts. So I don't think there's much of an issue.